A day full of Christmas shopping, sightseeing, and food!
Our second full day of the trip, but our first devoted entirely to Bologna. We began by exploring the areas around our B&B. We were right in the heart of the old city, so it wasn’t hard finding fun things to check out! We admired the architecture, visited many shops, checked out a couple different Christmas Markets, and more.
Asinelli Tower (Torre Degli Asinelli)
Teresa got a pedicure while I climbed Asinelli Tower, one of the famed Due Torri (Two Towers) of Bologna. The towers are located at the intersection of the roads that lead to the five gates of the old ring wall (mura dei torresotti). Asinelli is taller of the two, at 97.2 metres (319 ft); the smaller, with a greater lean, is the Garisenda Tower. The towers are named for the families that had them built between 1109 and 1119. Asinelli Tower has 498 steps. If you get tired along the way, there are landings periodically where you can step aside and rest. The views from the top were spectacular!
Time For Lunch
After climbing the tower, it was time for some food followed by a mid-day riposo (nap). Just outside the entrance to Asinelli tower, one of Santa’s Helpers was leading a group of passers-by in song. She then handed everyone a paper cup, which she filled with Prosseco, before leading everyone in a game of limbo (using a rolling pin as a bar).
Here’s a short video of the limbo:
For lunch, we went to the pizzeria just steps away from our room: Fra Diavolo. It’s a chain, but don’t fear: the pizza is excellent! The decor is fun, the pizza tasty, and the beer cold.
Night Shopping
As evening set in, we headed out for some Christmas shopping. We enjoyed the Christmas lights, night markets, and general festiveness. We also stopped by Gilberto, a shop our guide Ersi recommended, which was also very close to our room. Fantastic shop! We bought some candies and other treats as gifts (including some delicious pistachio pesto for us to enjoy when we get home). We talked to the clerk about shipping a case of wine home for my brother-in-law, and would return the next day to make the purchase.
We also headed to Piazza del Nettuno to see the Statue of Neptune. There is a famous acoustic phenomenon known as the “whispering gallery” or “telephone game” within the archway of the Palazzo del Podestà, which is bordered by Piazza del Nettuno, Piazza Re Enzo, and Piazza Maggiore. This acoustic trick, which dates back to the Middle Ages, allows two people standing in opposite corners of the vaulted archway to hear each other clearly, even when whispering, despite the surrounding noise.
The effect is due to the unique acoustics of the structure, which was originally designed to allow priests to hear confessions from the sick during the plague without direct contact, thus preventing the spread of contagion.
We had dinner at Vineria Favalli, a wine bar that serves a bit of food as well, including the excellent lasagna Bolognese with spinach noodles that was outstanding! Bolognese lasagna is different from what we most often have in the U.S. (which is usually southern style). There’s no ricotta, and it’s fairly thin (several layers of noodles, with thin layers of ragu and bechamel and a light dusting of parmesan in-between, with another thin layer of bechamel and parmesan on top of the upper layer of noodles.) It was a late dinner, so time for bed after a short walk back to the room.
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