Since we woke up later than usual, we were able to take advantage of the included breakfast at our hotel, rather than grab something out and about. Breakfast was serviceable, but nothing great. Our pre-booked “skip the line” tickets to the Accademia Gallery (to see the Statue of David) was at 8:45am, so we headed straight there after breakfast.
La Galleria dell’Accademia di Firenze
The Accademia Gallery is where you’ll find Michelangelo’s David, plus more statues from Michelangelo, paintings, and other exhibits. David was breathtaking, as usual. Not bad, considering it was chiselled out of a block of marble that nobody else wanted. Other artists considered it flawed and inferior, but Michaelangelo turned it into the most famous sculpture in the world. It’s one of those things that pictures don’t do justice. It must be seen in person to be fully appreciated.
We also really enjoyed the musical instrument collection. Nice little Stradivarius, among others. The line for day-of tickets to the Accademia Gallery can get very, very long, so you absolutely should book head. We booked “skip the line” tickets (not a tour, just entrance tickets, because I did the tour last time).
SimBIOsi Organic Cafè
After the Accademia Gallery, we stopped for a drink/bite at SimBIOsi Organic Cafè. They had a full brunch available (eggs, pancakes, avocado toast, etc.) plus organic wines, coffee, etc. The Cafè is housed in a very charming and rustic old stone building. Service was a little slow, but we had time so it wasn’t an issue.
Baptistery of Saint John
After our mid-morning snack, we headed to the Baptistery of St. John, which is in the Piazza del Duomo. The ceiling was undergoing restoration, but it was still very much worth a visit. It’s one of the oldest buildings in the city, built between 1059 and 1128. Up until 1935, all Florentines were baptized there, including Dante Alighieri, Amerigo Vespucci, and members of the Medici family. The architecture, both inside and out, is extraordinary, taking inspiration from the Roman Pantheon and adding many unique touches. The artwork and sculptures are not to be missed, and there are several sarcophagi and other tombs inside, including the Tomb of Antipope John XXIII. The exterior doors are also great works of art. The south doors present 20 scenes of John the Baptist, the patron saint of Florence. The north doors, designed by Ghiberti, depicts the life of Christ in 20 panels. The east doors, also by Ghiberti, depict stories from the Old Testament beginning with the Creation of Adam and Eve and end with the meeting of King Solomon and the Queen of Sheba. The east doors have become known as the “Gates of Paradise” after Michelangelo said they were so beautiful that “they might fittingly stand at the gates of Paradise.”
Palazzo Vecchio
After the Baptistery, we visited the Palazzo Vecchio, which was stunning. The “Old Palace” is the town hall of Florence. It’s been known by several other names over the years: Palazzo del Poppolo, Palazzo dei Priori, Palazzo Ducale, and, originally, Palazzo della Signoria. The palace took its current name when the Medici Duke moved his residence to Palazzo Pitti.
Inside the Palace, the apartments, the grand Hall of the Five Hundred, and other various rooms were amazing, each with intricate ceilings and other decorations. Each room in the palace is a work of art unto itself. One of our favorite rooms was the map room, with world maps from different ages. Pictures don’t do the palace justice, but here are a bunch we took anyway!
Lunch at Osteria Pastella
After Palazzo Vecchio, we had a bit of time to kill before lunch, so we stopped at Vivaldino Bistro for a drink. They had a refreshing Limoncello Spritz, which we enjoyed at one of their outdoor tables.
Lunch was at the very popular Osteria Pastella. They do pasta made in a cheese wheel, but we didn’t order it. Luckily, several tables around us did, so we got to see the show they put on when serving it. They gave us a small complimentary Prosecco to start us off. I had wild boar pappardelle, and Teresa had a ravioli dish. The house wine was delicious, so we bought 2 bottles to bring home. (Anyone taking bets on if they last that long?)
For dessert we had a “dessert lasagne” and Vin Santo with biscotti. They gave us a complimentary limoncello to end the meal.
Manifattura – A Very Cool Italian Bar
After lunch we wandered back to the hotel for a siesta. When we headed back out, it was raining. We made our way to Manifattura, a very cool Italian bar that only serves Italian spirits, and only plays Italian music. The drinks were fabulous, as was the decor and music! Our bartender recommended a good local pizza place across the river, where we headed next.
Dinner at Fermento 1889 Pizza + A Wine Window
After cocktails, we headed to Fermento 1889 – the pizza place our bartender recommended. It was delicious! They do a 48 hour fermentation (24 cold, 24 room temp), resulting in a pillowy soft crust. Their ingredient combos were great, too. Traditional Margherita, to more adventurous. I had one with fior di latte mozzarella, pear, spicy gorgonzola, pepper, basil, and olive oil.
On our way there, we stopped at one of the famous wine windows in the city. This particular window was at Osteria Belle Donna. While there, we made dinner reservations for the next evening. Wine windows (buchette del vino) were originally used so sell wine during the 16th century, as a good way for nobles to sell excess wine from their vineyards tax-free and without having to open a shop. They became even more popular during the 17th century as a way to observe social distancing during the bubonic plague. The wine windows had a renaissance during the COVID-19 pandemic, as social distancing was once again the norm.
After dinner, we stumbled back to our hotel, but not before buying a beautiful ceramic platter to be shipped home, as a gift for my step-mom.
Miscellaneous Florence Photos
Here are some random pics taken while walking around on our second day in Florence.
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