Santa Margherita Ligure
We began our first full day in Genoa by leaving town. We took the train from Genoa to Santa Margherita Ligure where we were meeting a guide to take us to Portofino, which is a 15-minute ferry ride from Santa Margherita Ligure. It was just us and 2 other couples in the group. Breakfast at the hotel before we left, and although there were many options to choose from, I couldn’t pass up Ligurian focaccia and assorted salume. Breakfast of champions.
Santa Margherita Ligure is a comune (municipality) in the Metropolitan City of Genoa, located about 35 kilometres (22 mi) southeast of Genoa proper. We had a little time before meeting the tour guide, so saw a few things near our meeting spot, including Castello di Santa Margherita Ligure, built by the Republic of Genoa in 1550 as defense against the increasing attacks of North African pirates. There were also a couple statues of dead guys.
Portofino
Portofino is a protected inlet, in more ways than one. It’s protected from the brunt of large storms due to how it’s situated, and the entire area from Portofino around to the other side of the point is a nature preserve. There’s a single road that reaches the outskirts of Portofino, but Portofino itself is pedestrian only. From Portofino there are walking/hiking/biking trails throughout the area. Even the coral sea bottom is protected – large yachts and their boats can’t anchor to the bottom, they must use buoys.
The town itself is charming, but expensive. We toured the town, including one of the two churches, ate some delicious focaccia, then took a pesto making class from a local restaurant.
Pesto Class
I’ve been making pesto at home for years. My dad used to grow basil, so we had pesto all the time growing up. I wanted to take this class to see if I can pick up any tips. First thing I learned is the Genovese basil is more tender and delicate than what we find in U.S. grocery stores. They like to use young leaves, but even then, they’re thinner and lighter than what I’m used to. So, I did learn something new: use only baby leaves, and remove the stems! The rest was pretty much how I make it, including use of a mortar and pestle (much better result than a food processor or blender). The key is to take your time and really go to work with the mortar and pestle. (Have a glass of wine nearby for when you need to take a break, lol.) The instructor said mine was “masterful” and good enough to serve at the restaurant! She even went inside to bring out the chef, who told me I did a great job. As you can see from the pictures, the result is very bright green, much more bright than I’m used to. The taste was out of this world. Ingredients matter!
Back in Genoa
We were back in Genoa by late afternoon, so spent some time down by the waterfront, including the Aquarium of Genoa. But first, we went through the Banksy exhibit at the Genoa train station. Unexpected, but fun diversion before dinner! Speaking of dinner, we went back to Tralalêro, and was just as good as last time.
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