Tip #1: The weather changes quickly. Pack hats, a light jacket and scarves for those sudden showers or surprise gusts.
Charm Alert: Watch out for the shifting tiles in the sidewalks, and don’t miss the occasional mosaic glimmer tiles. Everywhere you go in the city, whether you’re in a gritty barrio or an upscale suburb, the tiles in the walkways shift. There is always a loose one or two, and if you step on one, don’t be surprised if you get splashed with muddy water. Don’t wear a non-absorbent shoe or dry clean only pants, unless you’re taking a taxi from door to door. (Do people do that? Why wouldn’t you be walking 18,767 steps daily like me?) En serio, If I hadn’t done one of my 10–12-minute Lindy Well Pilates, Nordic, or lymphatic drainage workouts daily, this pace would not have been sustainable for 14 days. Drop a comment below if you’d like an Instagram link to any of these travel-friendly, doable workouts.
Tip #2: pack a washable walking shoe, a non-canvas sneaker, and/or a water sandal for the beach. Throw in some cute flats or a low-heeled pump for a night out, if you are going to see live music or a show. Uruguayans dress well, smell lovely, and look sharp! If you’re traveling in February or March, bring a linen dress or top, a dark trouser or slacks, and a small evening purse/clutch, or a crossbody in neutral color.
Charm Alert and Truth: I preferred the tiled walkways of this Diosa Verde (Green Goddess) of a city over the concrete of American walkways or the cobbled streets of Europe and Japan. The Montevidean tiled walkways made me slow down and savor moments more often, which is one of the most magical parts of Montevideo. She will surprise you and slow you down. This trip took me to the deepest level of nostalgia and sweet remembrances of ALL my Latin American experiences and connections, namely my parents’ Cuban roots. I watched the flight path on the in-seat TV as we flew over Cuba, and found myself waving maniacally at my cousins far below in the darkness. I had a little cry in my seat over the unfairness of their lives. Mucho amor para mis primos y primos, tíos, te amo mucho. Tomorrowland, Jorgito.
Truth: this is a dog culture. Prepare for a lot of dog feces on some downtown sidewalks; in the suburbs, this is far less common, as is true of the U.S. This is another way Uruguay will make you slow down and notice. But, this also means there are dogs everywhere, on leashes and off, politely playing with each other, and joyfully interacting with humans. I am a cat person, but I was in DOG HEAVEN. The people plainly love their dogs, invest in their health and wellbeing, and the dogs appreciate it. They are such shiny, happy GOOD BOYS and GIRLS. Even the off-leash guard dogs in front yards of inner city homes behaved politely. So chill, like daily life in the city.
BUT, Truth: they do also adore cats, but they keep them INDOORS, as the Croatians do. According to Google reviews, there are three, well-maintained shelter rescues in the city. (Disclaimer: I did not visit all three, due to their limited hours of operation.) Not only are the cats at Cafelino Cafe & Adoption Center happy and safe, they have a fun, clean space to play with creative toys and cozy places to nap or hide. Heart, fully melted. It inspired us to shop for cat wheels for the ladies of Casa Cervo.
Truth: The city inspires one’s creative, musical side. I bet money that you will make a playlist. I started adding songs to mine only about ten days into the trip, but revisiting old playlists and hearing a lot of Latin American pop music as well as a quirky mix of jazz standards, ABBA, Sia, Madonna, and Lady Gaga on the radio in cafes and shops, made me emo about everything. Being out and about in bookstores and museums, ignited my nostalgia for my Costa Rica (March 2017) and Spain trips (February 2019), B.T. (before Tony). It made me miss my three closest amigas with whom I’ve traveled to Costa Rica and Spain, but also made me draw closer to Deborah Rhea, a querida amiga, whom I met through my youngest, Shelby. Shelby serendipitously met Deborah in an art class at Sacramento City College in 2022. Deborah and her marido Daniel (our unofficial city guide and Montevidean-born Uruguayso, have enriched our lives with their abundant wisdom, laughter, storytelling, and, most importantly, exquisite collages and drawings.
Truth: The city is global, cosmopolitan, and politically aware. She bustles, she tangos and dances flamenco, she drums, she marches, she waves signs, she wears stilts and feathers. We arrived on the last day of Carnivale, and my first experience of it reminded me of spending a fun night at the Crocker Museum’s Art Mix series, probably because we saw a show at one of the city’s sweetest, family friendliest museums. My first evening in Montevideo told me enough of the story of the city’s night life, its connection with selfhood and empathy, focus on community and political engagement, that I knew I’d be reading her stories to the end.
She’s One of The Ones (Last Unas): as a result of this scouting trip, we have bumped the (suburban) barrios of Pocitos or Carrasco, Montevideo, Uruguay, to the top of the places we would like to relocate to part time some day; she’s on the future summer home spreadsheet. A beach city to retreat to when the summer heat of Sacratomato descends on me with seasonal depression (aka Summertime Sadness) and intense environmental asthma (a long COVID-19 symptom I cannot shake)? ¿¡Como no?! The healthcare system there is excellent and free for all citizens. We noticed that every pharmacy has an MD or pharmacist on hand providing the equivalent of a visit to urgent care or a telephone appointment, without the insane co-pays or scheduling hassles of the American healthcare system. Which brings me to my…
Final Tip: Pack a small medical kit, which includes sunscreen (they have HIGH UV levels around midday), antibiotic cream for scrapes and bites, anti-itch cream, and a chafing lotion. Here are some product recommendations for people of all shapes, sizes, and genders: anything from https://www.monistat.com/, but especially their anti-chafing lotion is excellent for use on skin dealing with some mild humidity or long days of walking and sun exposure.
Loved your writing Teresa! Tears for our Cuban family shared. Maybe some day we will visit Uruguay, sounds lovely.
Thank you so much. 🫂❤️