Honeymoon in Italy 2023 – Day 9 (The Town of Cervo)

One of the reasons we decided to visit Genoa, aside from the fact my family came from Genoa, is the town of Cervo is a short distance up the coast. We’ve recently learned, after hiring genealogists in Genoa to research our family, that my great-great grandfather (who came to America via Genoa) was an orphan. It’s unclear if he at some point was taken in by a Cervo, or if he just took the name for reasons unknown. It’s also possible he lived in the town of Cervo for a time.

We were up early to catch an inner-city train towards Cervo. The plan was to get off at Alassio, then take a bus to Andora, then another bus to Cervo. When we got to Alassio, there was a taxi stand, so we asked how much to take us to Cervo. It ended up being 45 euro, which was worth it because our taxi driver took us to the very top of the town, where the old medieval part of the town, and the church of St. John the Baptist were located. If we’d taken the bus, we’d have to climb all the way to the top.

Cervo is very quaint little village on a hill overlooking the ocean, seemingly stuck in medieval times with ancient towers and ramparts still protecting the village. There are beaches down below, while up top are the church of John the Baptist, the Oratorio di Santa Caterina, the medieval Clavesana stronghold (which hosts the Ethnographic Museum of Western Liguria), and the Palazzo Viale-Citati.

We loved the church and the little twisty medieval streets, as well as the handful of small shops. We had delicious gelato at one of the spots near the top, with a great view of the coast, and found a delicious lunch spot called Taverna Mandragola. Teresa had a perfect Caprese salad with super ripe tomatoes and homemade mozzarella. I had grilled calamari with grilled veggies (zucchini, cherry tomatoes, eggplant, and onion) doused in fresh olive oil. It was heaven. We also shared a plate of focaccia al formaggio, which is nothing like regular Ligurian focaccia. Focaccia al formaggio is two very thin layers of bread (similar to flatbread) with cheese in the middle. It’s like a Ligurian quesadilla!

We also happened upon a shelves of books outside a building, with signs saying to “Find the book you like, choose it, and leave a donation” and “Take the books you want and leave a small donation in the box.”

When we decided to head back, we discovered the downside to taking the taxi – we didn’t know where the bus stop was located! There were no taxis to be found, as Cervo is not a typical tourist destination. We even asked a bar owner, who gave us the name of number of a supposed taxi driver – Lucca. When we called, Lucca told us he only works Sundays. Lucca is lazy! We asked around about the bus stop, but I don’t think anybody understood what we were asking, despite the smattering of Italian we were attempting. One big difference between these small seaside towns and the bigger cities is that very few people spoke English. The owner of the Taverna where we had lunch spoke a little bit of English, so we headed back to ask him about the bust stop. Turns out it was right under our nose! The bust stop was directly across the street from Gelateria Caffè Cervo. You’ll see a photo below of the Caffè – taken while I was literally standing at the bus stop! For some reason neither of us saw the sign. We finally caught the bus from Cervo to Andora, then another bus from Andora to Alassio, and finally a train back to Genoa.

Photos

Here’s a photo dump from our day in Cervo. You’ll notice plenty of deer (on signs, crests, and posters). That’s because Cervo is the Italian word for a male deer/buck.

Lunch & Gelato

The gelato we enjoyed near the top of the town, and lunch at Taverna Mandragola, including a photo of Taverna staff prepping basil leaves for making pesto.

Streets, Views, and Sights in Cervo

Signs, Posters, Murals, and Crests

Pretty much anything with the Cervo name on it (and there was no shortage).

Oratorio of St. Catherine

Church of St. John the Baptist

Here are some photos of the exterior of the church of St. John the Baptist, as seen from various points in Cervo. The inside of the church is down below in a video.

Here’s a video of the inside of the church:

For Future Reference:

• The bus between Andora and Cervo is from the Riviera Transporti Company, bus 12. Their buses are blue.
• The bus between Andora and Alassio is from the TPL Company, and is bus 40. Their buses are red.
• You can buy bus tickets from the nearest tobacchi shop, or from the driver (although it’s better to already have your ticket). Nobody asked for our tickets on either bus ride.