Croatia 2025 – Day 5 (Šibenik, Split, Game of Thrones, and Rain!)

Šibenik

It rained all night and morning, all the way from Plitvice to Šibenik. It tapered off as we got closer to Šibenik, but there was light rain off an on most of the morning. We explored Šibenik despite the drizzle. Lots of churches, including one (St. James’ Cathedral) that was used as the Iron Bank in Game of Thrones. The entire old town area of Šibenik was a stand-in for Braavos in Game of Thrones as well. Another spot, St. John’s Fortress (which we didn’t visit), was transformed into the fighting pit in the city of Meereen.

We had a wonderful lunch along the waterfront at Bronzin Restaurant, which had an impressive open kitchen. I had the veal burger with maasdam cheese and onion confit – and it might be the best burger I’ve ever had. I’ve subsequently had dreams about that burger. My dad wanted the lamb chops, but was told they “weren’t ready”. When we asked what that means, we were told they haven’t had time to butcher the lamb yet. Dad ended up having the veal burger as well. The squid ink risotto and lasagna (also made with maasdam cheese) were also excellent.

Split

After lunch we headed for Split. The rain really started to pick up, and was pouring heavily when we arrived. Luckily it was only a 3 minute walk with our luggage to the apartment (but it was a wet 3 minutes!) The bigger issue was the apartment was on the 5th floor, and there was no elevator. We had a short rest (and started laundry) before we had to meet a guide to show us around.

The rain stopped completely just in time to meet Lea, our guide for a walking tour of Split. We walked all around and through Diocletian’s Palace, which is incredible. (This entire area was my favorite spot of the trip.) Diocletian was the Roman Emperor from 284 AD to 305 AD. He ordered the fortified palace built for his retirement in 305 AD.

A 3d model of Split, including Diocletian’s Palace.

The outer wall of Diocletian’s Palace, with newer construction in front. When the palace was built, the sea came right up to this wall, and the entrance we use to enter was actually a secret exit to awaiting boats.

Construction of the palace began in 295 AD. After Diocletian was gone, over the centuries, some of the temples were destroyed and replaced with other structures, while others were converted into Christian churches or baptisteries. Also, many of the columns flanking the main road were re-used to construct the Romanesque bell tower of the Cathedral of Saint Domnius. Most of the columns actually came from Egypt, and are much older. Diocletian was obsessed with Egypt after having visited. He bought not just columns, but 13 Sphinx sculptures. One of the two Sphinx sculptures that flanked the entrance to his chambers is still intact. It’s over 3500 years old (it was already 1800 years old when it was shipped to Split from Luxor). There’s another Sphinx in front of the Temple of Jupiter, but it’s missing its head. (The Temple of Jupiter survived because it was converted to a Christian baptistery.) The head of another Sphinx is mounted above a house doorway as decoration.

Inside the palace walls, looking toward the rear wall

Another view of the rear wall, with another building in front.

Bell Tower of the Cathedral of Saint Dominus. The columns were originally flanking the main road, and many of them are from ancient Egypt.

The Peristil, with the entrance to the mausoleum at the back.

Two surviving columns on the main road, with a wall in the background

Headless Sphynx outside the Temple of Jupiter

Up ahead is the Iron Gate, one of 4 Roman gates built inside Diocletian’s Palace. This gate was built in the 4th century AD.

A Sphynx head mounted above an apartment door

The inside of the Golden Gate, looking out

A gate at the entrance to the small courtyard connected to the Golden Gate

The courtyard with the Golden Gate to the right and a second gate to the left.

The Golden Gate, from outside the palace

Statue of Gregory of Nin, located just outside the Golden Gage

Outer wall of Diocletian’s Palace, next to the Golden Gate

Square in Split at dusk — A square inside the palace at dusk

The entire palace is a Unesco World Heritage site. It wasn’t added until 1979, so there are many shops, restaurants, and apartments that were built in and around the surviving ancient structures. In fact, one bedroom wall of our apartment was part of the outer wall of a guard tower.

Here are some images showing the guard tower and our apartment:

Drawing of what the palace originally looked like. The circled area is the guard tower, the outer wall of which was in our apartment.

One of the bedrooms in our apartment. This wall is part of a palace guard tower.

Model of the guard tower. This is the window that’s in our apartment.

Google Earth top-down view showing the guard tower on the right, and our apartment on the left.

Here are some examples of newer construction built in and around the ancient strucctures:

Part of the ancient palace with newer (but still very old) construction inside.

Some ancient columns from the original palace, with newer/old building behind

The Silver Gate (east entrance to the palace). In the upper right corner you can see part of a newer apartment.

Close-up of the apartments adjoining the ancient Eastern Gate.

The Iron Gate, with newer retail building.

More Game of Thrones

We saw several Game of Thrones sites, including the cellars where Daenerys kept the young dragons, and the stairs where Cersei Lannister took her walk of shame (which will be posted on another day, since we were able to get some photos with fewer people and no rain!)